By José R. Ralat
For the last three years or so, the hottest trend in the taco world has been birria de res, a Jalisco, Mexico, import that traveled to the Lone Star State by way of California. Hundreds, if not thousands, of restaurants and trucks now offer a vast array of iterations of the consommé-dipped preparation, which has even made it into ramen and wontons. I’ve followed the birria boom since its inception, and now I’m seeing (and tasting) evidence that another taco revolution is starting to simmer across the state. It’s a dish you’ve likely heard of, one that has been served in Texas for more than a century. You may not have had the real thing, though, since preparing it right requires serious skill, knowledge, and time. I’m talking, of course, about carnitas.