BY BILL ADDISON-RESTAURANT CRITIC LA TIMES
Francisco Aguilar calls out the name on my order. Through one of the windows of Simón, the admiral-blue mariscos truck he parks six days a week at Sunset Triangle Plaza in Silver Lake, he hands me a plate with two tacos — a fish al pastor and a shrimp-filled gobernador.
The always-evolving options for tacos total 10 or so, and during the last couple months of regular lunches at Simón, solo or with friends, I’ve started taking care to request tacos in even numbers. Aguilar and his small crew pair them by happenstance as they’re ready. As a taquero, he leans modernist in his sculptural forms and outside-the-box shadings of taste and texture. Eating his coupled tacos is as satisfying as considering a duo of paintings by the same artist made in two very different moods.
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